Whenever I do a cooking demonstration on TV, I am always fascinated by how wild the hosts and viewers go over one of the simplest dishes: mashed potatoes. Just a single spoonful makes people close their eyes and swoon with pleasure.
I’m not surprised. After all, more than half a century has passed since instant mashed potatoes became a widespread supermarket product, and too many people have grown up eating something that is called mashed potatoes but is a pale imitation of the real thing. On top of that, many home cooks today never learned the basics of turning a bag of potatoes into a perfect puree — even though the process is fairly easy.
So I’m happy to share two easy recipes. Why two? Three reasons:
— Together, they suggest that there’s more than one way to get delicious mashed potatoes.
— They demonstrate that mashed potatoes can become a delicious canvas for other flavors to complement whatever main dish you’re serving.
— They show that mashed potatoes don’t always need lots of fat to taste great; indeed, the second recipe gets less than a third of its total calories from fat.
The first recipe follows a more traditional model. It begins with baking potatoes, which cook to a fluffy consistency many people adore. They’re enriched with your choice of heavy cream or milk, along with butter. I add a tablespoon of bottled prepared horseradish, which goes wonderfully with any holiday roast, whether turkey, ham or beef. But you could substitute other savory flavorings, such as Japanese wasabi (green horseradish) paste or caramelized onions.
For lighter mashed potatoes, I begin with the Yukon gold variety. Although the consistency of these potatoes is waxier than russets, they also have a naturally rich, buttery flavor that makes you feel as if you’re eating something rich. I moisten them with buttermilk, which has a rich consistency but is low in fat. And I add just a little butter, which I cook until brown to contribute a deep, nutty flavor.
Whichever recipe you prepare, a few tips will help ensure success. I like to cook the potatoes in salted water, for more uniform seasoning. But don’t boil the potatoes beyond the point of fork-tenderness, or you’ll get watery results. I prefer to puree them with a simple hand-held ricer, which helps produce a uniformly fluffy consistency; but you could also use a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, a food mill or an old-fashioned hand-held masher. Just be sure to avoid using a food processor, which gives potatoes a gummy consistency.
Here’s to your festive holiday table — with the best mashed potatoes ever.
CREAMY HORSERADISH MASHED POTATOES
Makes 6 servings.
2 1/2 pounds baking potatoes, peeled and cut into even 2-inch chunks
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning to taste
2/3 cup heavy cream or milk or a combination
6 to 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
Pinch freshly ground white pepper
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
2 to 3 teaspoons prepared horseradish
To cook potatoes: Put potatoes in pot. Add cold water to cover well. Add 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium. Simmer briskly for 15 to 20 minutes or until just fork-tender. Drain potatoes well. Return to pot. Cover tightly. Let rest undisturbed for 5 minutes.
To heat milk and butter: Meanwhile, in small saucepan, combine milk or cream and butter. Heat over low heat until butter melts.
To mash potatoes: Press potatoes through ricer into large, heatproof bowl. Using sturdy spoon, gradually stir in milk and butter mixture. Continue stirring until potatoes are light and fluffy, seasoning generously to taste with salt, white pepper and nutmeg. Stir in horseradish. Adjust seasonings to taste.
To serve: Serve immediately. Or keep warm by covering bowl and setting it over pan of gently simmering water.
REDUCED-FAT MASHED YUKON GOLD POTATOES WITH BROWN BUTTER
Makes 4 servings.
1 1/2 pounds small Yukon gold potatoes, peeled, cut into 2-inch chunks
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup buttermilk
Freshly ground white pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg
1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves or chives
To cook potatoes: Put potatoes in pot. Add cold water to cover well. Add 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium. Simmer for 25 minutes or until just fork-tender.
To make brown butter: About 5 minutes before potatoes are done, melt butter in small skillet over medium heat. Continue cooking, watching carefully to avoid burning, for 2 to 3 minutes or until butter turns light nut-brown color. Remove from heat as soon as butter starts browning.
To heat buttermilk: Meanwhile, in small saucepan, bring buttermilk to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to very low. Keep warm.
To mash potatoes: As soon as potatoes are cooked, drain thoroughly. Pass potatoes through ricer into heatproof bowl. Vigorously stir brown butter and hot buttermilk into potatoes until thoroughly combined. Season to taste with salt and white pepper and dash of nutmeg.
To serve: Serve immediately. Or keep warm by covering bowl and setting it over pan of gently simmering water.
